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We use wiring diagrams in a lot of diagnostics, but when we are really not careful, they can sometimes lead us to create decisions that aren't accurate, which can lead to wasted diagnostic time, unnecessary parts costs for the replacing parts which are not defective, and occasionally missing a basic repair.
Today, the wiring diagram required to support certain repair procedure is roofed within that article or a link is supplied to the perfect SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM article. For example, the wiring diagram to get a Ford EEC-IV system may be a part of ENGINE PERFORMANCE and WIRING DIAGRAMS articles for Ford Motor Co. The wiring diagram to get a cruise control system may very well be built into ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT section for the exact vehicle manufacturer, and also the wiring diagram on an anti-lock brake system can be built into BRAKES and WIRING DIAGRAMS for the precise manufacturer.
Within my recent multi-part series on automotive electrical systems (which included primers on how electricity works and how to use a multimeter), I gave a shorter troubleshooting example by which I oftentimes tried a multimeter to substantiate that voltage was present. If your device—say, an electric powered motor—isn't working, first determine whether voltage is reaching it as soon as the switch that powers the device is turned on. If voltage is present on the device's positive terminal, test for continuity regarding the wire to the device's negative terminal and ground (first your body of the car, so the negative battery terminal). If it passes those tests, conduct a voltage drop test to look for a top resistance failure. Should the voltage drop test shows no issue, the device is toast.