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We use wiring diagrams in a number of diagnostics, in case we aren't careful, they can now and again bring us to make decisions which are not accurate, be a catalyst for wasted diagnostic time, unnecessary parts costs for any replacing parts aren't defective, and occasionally missing a fairly easy repair.
Today, the wiring diagram essential to support a particular repair procedure is roofed within it or one of the links is provided to the proper SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM article. Such as, the wiring diagram for a Ford EEC-IV system may be found in ENGINE PERFORMANCE and WIRING DIAGRAMS articles for Ford Motor Co. The wiring diagram for just a cruise control system may very well be contained in ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT section for the unique vehicle manufacturer, and the wiring diagram on an anti-lock brake system could be contained in BRAKES and WIRING DIAGRAMS for the specific manufacturer.
At my recent multi-part series on automotive electrical systems (which included primers on how electricity works and how to use a multimeter), I gave a short troubleshooting example in which I oftentimes tried a multimeter to make sure that voltage was present. If the device—say, an electrical motor—isn't working, first see whether voltage is reaching it if your switch that powers the set up is turned on. If voltage is present in the device's positive terminal, test for continuity between the wire to the device's negative terminal and ground (first one's body of your vehicle, therefore the negative battery terminal). If this passes those tests, conduct a voltage drop test to pay attention to a high resistance failure. Should the voltage drop test shows no problem, the set up is toast.